Dyno Checklist
This list is to help make sure that your dyno session goes as smoothly as possible... 50% of all tuning sessions are a battle with Murphys Law. The car should be in good running condition, and should NOT have any of the following problems:
- Overheating
- Leaking Fluids
- Slipping Clutch (new clutch remember to break-in)
- Poor condition motor (Compression Test and/or Leak-Down to verify)
- Misfiring (Old/Broken Plug Wires, Old Plugs, Interference Problems, etc...)
- Boost Control (A manual boost controller is a good thing for the tool box, EBC's are too time consuming to set up on the dyno)
- Wiring (check grounds, battery fully charged, check alternator charging)
- Adequate Catch Cans (1qt and larger)
- Fuel (pump or racing)
- Oil
- Coolant
- Ice (if air/liquid IC used)
- MSD Box (This is a joke... or is it?)
- Spark Plugs (swap new plugs in during dyno session for aggressive tuning)
This is important, shop techs frown on constantly being interrupted to loan/find tools. Its always good to bring a tool box with all the basics, you never know what is going to happen on the dyno sometimes. This just makes it easier and quicker for everyone involved.
Tools:- Spark Plug Wire Puller (if applicable)
- Socket / Wrench for Crank Pulley (to turn motor over to make a TDC mark to sync the ignition timing)
- Funnel (if car has a fuel cell)
- Fuel Jug (if draining pump fuel to switch to race fuel)
- Container to drain catch cans into
- O2 sensor socket (if difficult location for sensor)
- Laptop Computer and Floppy Disk (if using yours for tuning, and/or to save a copy of your calibration file)
- Laptop power inverter/charger (Murphys Law was invented for laptop/cell phone batteries!)
- Copy of current software for your Engine Management System
- Backup Communication cable for Laptop to ECU